A guide to post-partition Sudan that leads you expertly from the labyrinthine souks of Khartoum to coral-bedecked wrecks off the Red Sea coast.

Introduction vii
Part One General Information 1
Chapter 1 Background Information
3
Geography and climate
3
Natural history and conservation
6
History
9
Government and politics
26
Economy
27
People
28
Language
30
Religion
31
Education
34
Culture
34
Chapter 2 Practical Information
39
When to visit
39
Highlights
39
Suggested itineraries
40
Tour operators
41
Red tape
42
Embassies
45
Getting there and away
46
Health
48
Safety
62
What to take
66
Money
66
Getting around
67
Maps
73
Accommodation
74
Eating and drinking
75
Public holidays
77
Shopping
78
Photography
79
Media and communications
80
Business
82
Cultural etiquette
82
Travelling positively
84
Part Two The Guide 87
Chapter 3 Khartoum and Omdurman
89
History
89
Getting there
91
Getting around
94
Tourist information/local tour operators
96
Where to stay
96
Where to eat
99
Entertainment and sports
103
Shopping
105
Other practicalities
106
Media and communications
107
What to see and do
107
Chapter 4 Northern State
119
Meroë and the pyramids
120
Naga
123
Musawwarat es Sufra
125
Karima
127
Nuri
131
El Kurru
132
Ghazali
133
Old Dongola
134
Dongola
135
Kawa
136
Travel along the Nile
137
Kerma
138
West bank temples
141
Abri
144
Wadi Halfa
145
Chapter 5 Nile State
151
Shendi
151
Atbara
153
Ed Damer
155
Berber
155
Abu Hamed
155
Chapter 6 Red Sea
157
Port Sudan
157
Excursions from Port Sudan
162
Scuba diving from Port Sudan
163
Suakin
168
Chapter 7 Al Qadarif and Kassala
173
Kassala
173
Gedaref
178
Chapter 8 Central Sudan
181
Kosti
181
Aba Island
184
Sennar
185
Wad Medani
189
Chapter 9 Kordofan
191
El Obeid
191
The Nuba Mountains
196
Chapter 10 Darfur
205
Background
207
Travel in Darfur
212
Nyala
214
El Fasher
214
El Geneina
214
Appendix 1 Language 215
Appendix 2 Glossary 219
Appendix 3 Further Information 221
Index 225